First I will apologize; I didn't really intend to do a step by step build. I was just trying to learn how to use my camera better. The pictures get better and more comprehensive as we go along.
The two pictures above are of the post-hollow grind, pre-taper. I coat the butt of the knife with Dykem and use a height gauge to scribe the desired taper thickness. I have more success taking the hollow completely off the butt of the knife as opposed to creating a oval shaped hollow starting near the guard and ending somewhere near the butt. ( t-b Utility Hunter, Chute, Mini-Wilderness, and three different pattern Stiffhorns (these are original Loveless patterns the bottom is the traditional, more common))
I am fortunate enough to have a surface grinder; this allows me to make sure that my flat platen is FLAT. It is amazing how little grinding it takes to cause a significant depression in the original KMG platen ( I haven't had the time to make a full hard platen).
Everybody seems to have their favorite way of flat grinding or tapering a tang. I have had success using the top secret welding magnet. Two things make the magnet a favorite; the hole allows for a positive grip and the large flat surface allows even pressure on the tang (seems like I can get them flatter).
Post tapering; nice and flat! Taking the original hollow fully off the butt of the handle makes starting the bevel easier with less material to remove.